Jan 16, 2013 Carrion de Los Condes to Moratinos: The road to perdition?

An eye opener at the Bar Espagna in Carrion

After a pretty restful night at the Espiritu Santo albergue in Carrion. Robin and I gathered our gear together and headed out to a local bar for a coffee and a “carajillo” (shot of espresso with some sort of alcohol). The day was cold and, rainy and this seemed to be an appropriate response to the weather. One guy staring into a brandy didn’t seem to notice us but a few others were raising quizzical eyebrows at our breakfast drink selection. Just a couple of “caministas heading off to work.” Today was cold (low 40’s) with constant moderate rain (for most of the 30k) day. The 25-30 mph headwinds added to our misery. The endless ribbon of senda (pilgrim gravel pathway) never seemed to arrive anywhere. We just walked in the cold and wet as the wind drowned out any personal thoughts with its rising voice and unruly tone. We inched forward step after step, minute after minute, hour after hour until madness seemed possible. At the limit of our reserves we walked, heads bowed to the wind, into Caldadilla de la Cueza (17 kms from Carrion) only to find an empty town and no offer of shelter save a bus stop with a bench. We met up with our two Spanish friends and making the best of our minimal shelter we broke for lunch. Robin’s boots were taking on more water than the Titanic so she swapped socks and slipped on some plastic bags to stay dry until Moratinos. The afternoon was marginally drier, but still wet, windy and hard going. All of today’s kms were hard fought for.

Entering Moratinos

As we walked into Moratinos, to Rebekah and Patrick Scott’s Peaceable Kingdom albergue, we were pretty much done for. Great thanks to Rebekah and Paddy for a very warm welcome, into a very toasty living area, and for providing two bottles of vino tinto to chase away today’s significant labors. We had a great late afternoon chat, just catching up and swapping stories, followed by hot showers, laundry, and a dinner reservation at beautiful new restaurant built into a local bodega. Life was making a serious course correction just when we needed it. Our dinner was delightful, the food and wine, warmed and readied us for bed. Robin and I are tucked away upstairs, while Francisco and his father, Martin, are sleeping in the downstairs guest room. Clothes are drying by the wood stove, our bodies are clean, well nourished, and we are off to bed. I can’t believe how different our day was at the end compared to what we dealt with both at the beginning and for most of the day. Thank God for these kind people who are committed to our care. BTW, in true Camino spirit, Rebekah has offered her Camino boots to Robin so she can continue without wet feet. What a gift. What a day. Lights out in Moratinos. Good night to all. Off to Bercianos del Real Camino.

Just a bit tired
El Castillo in Moratinos
Our pilgrim crew with Rebekah next to Robin at El Castillo



7 thoughts on “Jan 16, 2013 Carrion de Los Condes to Moratinos: The road to perdition?”

  1. I've been following the posts every other day or so. Wonderful writing, both of you. My heart goes out as I read about the headwinds. Blessings, sweet friends.
    –Rebecca Bristol


  2. Rebekah and Paddy are truly the angels of the camino. I well remember having such a wet, exhausting day, but at a later stage of the way and without the soft landing. Buen camino, and thanks or sharing.


  3. Martea,

    Thank you for your comment on the Peaceable Kingdom. Rebekah and Paddy have come to our rescue on two winter caminos. Their genuine concern for pilgrims and their warm sense of hospitality, which surely comes from the heart, have made them special people in our lives. My wife Robin and I have been twice blessed to be welcomed into their home. Thank you letting us know who you are. I shall hope for the opportunity to meet you sometime in the future. Thanks again for checking in and all the very best to you.



  4. Eileen,

    Sorry you missed out on the soft landing. We really needed one the last time we dragged into Moratinos. Rebecca and Paddy were truly angels for us that day. Hope all is well in your life, and camino thoughts still abound.



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