Today we only walked about 11 miles in a little over four hours, but it seemed like it was a lot more. We caught a lift to the tiny village of Penasillás which lies right at the foot of Monte Faro. We stepped out of the taxi into a cold steady rain punctuated with occasional strong gusting winds. It was going to be one of those days. Our very first step was up a steep incline and many other steps followed suit. The road up the mountain for the first part just went straight up, no switchbacks. So we just settled into a slow steady climbing cadence and 1h 10m later we were at the top, soaked with sweat from the exertion. Here we peeled off to the right and walked another 1 1/2 hours along a gravel road paralleling a wind farm. Here the body rocking gusty winds tirelessly tried to penetrate our hard shells seeking our sweat drenched shirts, trying to chill us. We countered by keeping our pace up to keep our cores warm. I just didn’t want to peel off in those conditions and change into a dry shirt. In the end it worked out, but in short it was an exhausting, cold, wet day. By the time we came off the mountain, and dragged into Rodeiro, Robin and I were thankful to call it a day. We are staying at the Hostal O Guerra, a wonderful respite for weary pilgrims. We presented ourselves at the bar (leaving some small puddles), confirmed our room and moved directly to the comedor for lunch. The people who run this place are very kind and gracious innkeepers. We stayed here last year, and once again we have been well cared for. Our room is crisscrossed with drying lines as we try to get ready for another wet day tomorrow. But, as always, we have much to be thankful for. Yes, it was a challenging day, but one that still put a smile on our faces especially as we continued to thaw out in front of the pellet stove in the bar. Food, wine, heat and dry clothes are the touchstones of a happy winter pilgrim, and yes, we are very happy 😃. Off into the rain again tomorrow. Who cares 😉. It will all work out. Closing in on Santiago.
I ducked out of the Hotel Cardenal just after breakfast to track down a new pair of gloves to replace a pair I left somewhere in Pobre de Brollon. I got lucky and discovered a sporting goods store just around the corner. Once I had the gloves sorted out I remembered we needed two stamps per day for our pilgrim credentials starting in Monforte. Right across from the sporting goods store was a bar, so in I went for a quick cortado and out I walked with our credentials stamped, and a fresh coffee buzz.
Back at the hotel we leisurely gathered our gear together and eased out the front door around 11:00. We took a taxi 3.5 kms to A Vide and began walking from there. We did this to avoid ploughing through city streets and avoiding shoulder walking on the feeder road out of the city. Last year we did the same thing but we had an added enticement, thick fog. All things to consider as you plan your day.
Our walk today was all on quiet paved roads. Some off road sections were available, but due to the weather we opted for less mud and more pavement. There really wasn’t much to it. We just moved along chugging uphill for the first 5 miles and then a long flat section before dipping into Diomondi. We had some beautiful views of the Miño valley despite the rainy weather.
Our host for the night, Ian, kindly picked us up at the church in Diomondi and ran us downhill to the beautiful Casa San Estevo. Here we met his wife, Irene, at the door and our day was complete. Well, almost for a bit later Irene served a lovely dinner, which along with some enjoyable conversation and a sampling of some tasty orujos, truly completed our day. We are dry, warm and well fed in this beautiful home cared for by a very special couple. Thank you Irene and Ian for welcoming us once again. Now it’s off to bed.
The Hotel Las Vegas was a bit of a disappointment. The people running the place were friendly and accommodating but it offered little but a very basic room. The bar opened early but only for coffee and plastic wrapped sweets. Robin and I sat in the very dimly lit bar, had a coffee, and shoved off. As we walked out of town we passed three other bars that had lights on and seemed to be doing better business. Putting all that behind, the day broke beautifully with mild temperatures and scattered clouds. So, off we went knowing today would be a climbing day. It was only a short distance later that we crossed under the N-120 and started up. In the next 1.5 hours we climbed about 1800 feet through dead silent forest (well there were a few birds welcoming us). Beautiful. The day unfolded with long flat walks cut into shaded valley slopes, more descents and more steep climbs and finally a long flat section that brought us out of the rough and onto the final descent into Pobre do Brollon. It was a gorgeous day, well spent, but also tiring. This is a huff and puff stage that makes you earn every kilometer that you walk. But, so well worth it.
We called into the Pirate Bar, had a beer to cut the trail dust and asked the lady at the bar to call us a taxi to take us to Monforte de Lemos where we have booked into the Hotel Cardenal. The Hostal as Viñas where we stayed last year has closed and carrying on to Monforte made good sense. So, at day’s end we are, once again in good hands. Our laundry is whirling around in a nearby lavendería. we had another hearty Galician lunch, and all is set for our departure tomorrow for Diomondi, just before Chantada. The Casa Rural San Estevo will be our home for tomorrow night. Ian and Irene our hosts kindly offer to pick up pilgrims at the church in Diomondi and we are looking forward to staying with them again. The journey continues and we are so thankful for that.
Today we continued with our new Camino philosophy that basically states that we do not have to walk every step of any Camiño, but we must try to enjoy every step we take. So far that is working just fine. So today we took a taxi to our jump off point at Montefurado, and after 5 hours walking we reached our lodging for tonight the improbably named Hotel Las Vegas. This is in the village of San Clodio just beyond Quiroga.
Today’s walk was another stunner. Most of the time were on a secondary road the LU 933. It was very quiet, with no traffic, and a nice soft shoulder to walk on. It also followed a route high above the Sil River granting us some spectacular views. We lucked out with the weather and felt only a very few sprinkles over the course of the day. We encountered a few boar hunters, heard the baying dogs and the occasional rifle shot. Other than that it was a very pleasant and quiet day.
As we entered Quiroga we were looking forward to lunch at the Restaurante Aroza. We ate there a year ago and it was wonderful, but as today was Sunday, it was closed. However, a kind, local gent took us under his wing and off we trotted (literally) to another restaurant that he knew was open every day. A few moments later (only a few due to our high speed of advance) he led us into the Bar Chapakuna, on Calle Rio Lor, and briefed the barman that we needed a good feed. We thanked him for his kindness and for allowing us to get in a good sprint before lunch, and off he trotted.
Lunch was a wonderful menu del día. The huge plates of well prepared food (first and second courses), four draft beers, no desert (no room) and two cortados con gotas (small coffee with a few drops of spirits) came to a total of 24 euros for both Robin and I. Quite a bargain (see the attached photos, and you be the judge. Another fine day on the road to Santiago. Might have to walk a little further tomorrow 😉.
Much is made of the necessity of finding peace in this crazy world we call home. We all live in cultures where the give and take of everyday life seems to ensure that peace will never be found. Yet, once we are removed from the stressors that trigger our anxieties a simpler life can emerge. I guess that is what continues to draw Robin and I back to the Camino. For it is here, on the road to Santiago, that life finds a special peaceful quality that seems hard to replicate back home. So with rucksacks strapped on and a simple itinerary we find great joy and peace as we move along whatever Camino route we are walking. This realization is admittedly addictive, compelling, but also challenging for it seems we only find this rare combination of life enhancements in the empty space created by things we have left behind. Yes, it is at best a work in progress, but hour after hour this is the work we now willingly embrace and truthfully enjoy.
Arrived safely at Puente de Domingo Florez after a splendid walk in a thawing sun. Much to be thankful for.